THE OCCURRENCE OF EXTREME WAVE HEIGHT IN A TWO-DIMENSIONAL RANDOM WAVEFIELD IN COASTAL AREA

As the water waves come to coastal area, variation in dispersion relation due spatial inhomogeneity brings about deformation of wave shape. With local bathymetry effect, propagation experiences a complicated evolution process, including reflection, shoaling and breaking, etc. Considering directional spreading effect refraction becomes indispensable when it comes two-dimensional (2D) problem random wavefield. Mori et al. (2011) indicated that distribution maximum height deep-water is decided by dispersion. In this research, we aim discuss occurrence 2D area. It helps estimate better extreme events prevention work hazards. To simulate propagation, develop nonlinear model as an extension Lyu (2021), which considers high order harmonic interactions irregular before breaking surf zone.